The Bolognani wines are a case in point. Diego Bolognani is a brilliant, energetic winemaker from Trentino, not far south of the Austrian border. He makes vivid, delicious white wines from a range of varieties, some of them indigenous to his area (see Glossary), and has some promising estate-grown red wines in barrel. All of his wines are made by the 'non-Chardonnay' method, and they show wonderfully vivid aromas and flavors.
Moscato Giallo (dry yellow muscat)
All the aromatic intensity you'd expect from the variety, but this classic northern Italian type is bone-dry, which makes it a great aperitif. It really inspires the appetite. Notes: pale straw color; classic Muscat aroma of nectarine and flowers, very distinctive; on the palate it is crisp and dry with that same haunting perfume. The excellent acidity makes it almost Sauvignon in structure.
Pinot Grigio
This variety is now the second-best-selling white grape in the US even though the majority is being imported, and most of it is insipid. Diego Bolognani's example is full of character, with the classic apple/nutmeg aroma and flavor and meaty texture. Notes: straw color; aroma of apple, pear and nutmeg; broad and meaty on the palate despite the fact that there is no use of oak; long finish.
Teroldego 'Armilo'
Italian wine is food wine, obviously, but some wines are more foodie than others. The Teroldego grape variety is indigenous to the Trentino region, and produces mid-weight reds that make a wide range of foods taste much more interesting. Diego Bolognani's version is unoaked, smells of plum and herbs, and is fresh and very attractive. We drink it with some pasta dishes, most chicken dishes, and many grilled meats. This is an unconventional, delicious, and versatile red wine.
