Skip navigation bar

Sella

These notes are from Luca Furlotti, the thoughtful manager of Sella, and I can't improve on them. I would add only that this is a very exciting discovery for Nebbiolo fans; Lessona and Bramaterra are extraordinary terroirs, and the winemaking here is exactly what it should be.

The Sella wine estates are one of the oldest active Italian wine producers. The Sella family has produced wine in Lessona from their own vineyards since mid 17th century, and has owned and cultivated vineyards in Bramaterra (at Villa del Bosco) for the same amount of time; the two estates were combined in 1881. The cellar of the estate still holds old vintages of these wines, including Lessona from 1904, and wine labelled as “Vino Lessona” that may be even older.

Today the estate still maintains its original artisanal scale, and is still devoted to the limited production of high-quality wine. These wines come from about 20 hectares (fifty acres) of vineyard cultivated by the estate (18 hectares on the property, 2 rented) from which (due to very low yields) we bottle around 80000 bottles of wine a year.

Lessona and Bramaterra are in northern Piedmont (Alto Piemonte). This area constitutes the western part of a circle of the most noble wine-producing areas, known for porphyric soils, that extends to Gattinara and Boca. With Langa and Valtellina, these constitute the three classic areas for the production of Nebbiolo. Compared to the soils of Barolo and Barbaresco, the vineyards of northern Piedmont offer greater diurnal variation and soils that are richer in minerals. The personality of this area, capable of producing wines of particular freshness and aromatic definition, shows itself differently in each appellation. In the definition of aroma, the key quality of all great wines, the terroirs of Lessona and Bramaterra find their best interaction with the Nebbiolo grape, which gives a typical ferrous minerality here. This quality gives the wines a marked and well-defined mineral savor, rare in Italy and no less striking than that of the great red wines of Burgundy and the Loire. Clear balsamic notes of mint are present, too, and spices like white pepper and ginger. Other distinguishing aromas include floral notes such as geranium, and citrus (citron, bergamot). Structurally these wines are lighter and more elegant than those of Barolo and Barbaresco, with tannins that are perfectly incorporated even when young, particularly in Lessona, while in Bramaterra the wines retain a marked incisiveness.

Lessona is today a very rare Italian version of an “AOC monopole”, an appellation entirely owned by one producer, Sella. Historically, the granting of the DOC was an official recognition of the history of the estate, particularly of the passion of the family which has always believed in their land.

The Sella family produces eight wines, mainly reds produced of Nebbiolo. The five top wines are made from grapes grown in vineyards that are at least 25/30 years old, with parcels that are more than 80 years old, particularly (but not only) the Lessona vineyard called San Sebastiano allo Zoppo. The grapes from young vines of Lessona and Bramaterra are combined to make the estate second wine: L´Orbello.

The high average age of these vineyards naturally tends to produce very low yields, in the order of 35 quintali of grapes per hectare (1.5 tons per acre). An older vine is more difficult and more expensive to look after than a younger one, but the complexity that an old vine gives to the wine is in our judgement enormously greater than that of a younger vine, even if severely pruned.

In the old vineyards in northern Piedmont Nebbiolo is never planted by itself. It is always found with some rows of Vespolina, Croatina, or Uva Rara. For this reason our wines from Lessona and Bramaterra consist of a majority of Nebbiolo with a small percentage of the traditional local varieties.

Sella vinifies in a classical style. “Classical” doesen’t mean “old”. The technique of vinification and the technology used in our cellar are continually updated, always being sure to guarantee the best results. At Sella the word “classical” means that we prize the most authentic characteristics of the terroir and the vines, expressed by gentle extraction and aging in neutral wood.

THE WINES


“Vignaluce” Coste della Sesia DOC Bianco
100% Erbaluce
Two days of skin contact before fermentation
Fermentation and aging in stainless steel

Erbaluce is the classic indigenous white grape variety of northern Piedmont. 'Vignaluce' is made entirely of Erbaluce and neatly and elegantly expresses the character of the variety. The perfume ranges from almond to mandarin orange, wild flowers, and a quality of sappiness and minerality. Grown at very low yield in soils known for the production of structured red wines, this Erbaluce expresses a power and richness rare for the variety. 

“Majoli” Coste della Sesia DOC Rosato
Nebbiolo 100%
Fermentation and aging in stainless steel vats
Majoli is a rosé made mostly from the noble variety Nebbiolo. It consists of 50% 'saignée,' juice bled off from the fermentation of Lessona and Bramaterra (conferring structure and complexity), and 50% Nebbiolo vinified as a rosé (conferring freshness). The wine shows perfumes of pomegranate and watermelon, with echoes of licorice and rose petal. In the mouth it is substantial and intense, characterised by light varietal tannin and a pronounced salty aspect, components that give the wine a particular, pleasing 'crunchiness.' This is a Nebbiolo rosé that clearly represents the grape variety from which it is made, but is also unusually influenced by the vineyard and the region of production.

“Orbello” Coste della Sesia DOC
50% Barbera, 25% Nebbiolo, 20% Caberne Franc, 5% Vespolina and Croatina (approximately)
Barbera aged for 12 months in stainless steel, the other varieties 12 months in large barrels and used barriques
About 25,000 bottles produced every year
The fruit for Orbello comes from old-vine Barbera and Cabernet vineyards that date back to the 60s, to which are added young-vine Nebbiolo and Vespolina. In our judgement this is an extraordinary everyday wine, sold for the price of a normal Barbera or Dolcetto, with which it shares immediate drinkability but compared to which it offers more complexity and broader aromatic qualities. You will find here the same mineral and spice elements found in the more prestigious Lessona and Bramaterra, but in a fresher, more forward interpretation.

Bramaterra DOC
Nebbiolo 70%, Croatina 20%, Vespolina 10% ca.
Aged for 18 months in large barrels
About 20,000 bottles each vintage
Made from the vineyards of the historic Villa del Bosco, located in the heart of the Bramaterra area from which the whole appellation takes its name. The Bramaterra appellation includes six other areas between Gattinara and Lessona; the soils, constituted for the most part of grey-brown porphyr, give wines that are austere, intensely ferrous and spicy, with the most intense and succulent fruit.

Lessona DOC
80% Nebbiolo, 20% Vespolina
Aged for 24 months in large barrels
About 15,000 bottles each vintage
The most classic Lessona, made from grapes grown in various small old vineyards in the commune of Lessona. An aristocratically elegant Nebbiolo, yet also direct and attractive.

Lessona DOC “San Sebastiano allo Zoppo”
80% Nebbiolo, 20 % Vespolina
Aged for 18 months in large barrels, then 12 months in barrique.
About 5000 bottles produced in each vintage
From the single vineyard S. Sebastiano on the hill called Zoppo, one of the most respected crus in Alto Piemonte. This is the only wine we make that undergoes a brief aging in barrique. The vintage 2001, actually available for export, has been priced with the prestigious “3 Glasses” award by the “Gambero Rosso / Slow Food” italian wine guide.

Lessona DOC "Omaggio a Quintino Sella”
80% Nebbiolo, 20% Vespolina
Aged for 36 months in large barrel
3000 bottles and 150 magnums produced only in the best vintages
It’s the selection of the best barrel of Lessona or Bramaterra, made only when the quality is exceptional. The inspiration for this wine came from a passion for the great Rieslings of the Rhine, where the truly extraordinary lots are bottled seperately as “goldkapsel”.

Click on this link to learn more about the appellation of Lessona http://www.italianmade.com/wines/DOC10180.cfm

 

Thank you for visiting us.
Oliver McCrum Winese: Importer of Fine Italian Wines and Select California Wines